A little over a week ago, Larbo over at This Little Piggy posted about his discovery of Fergus Henderson’s trotter gear (a gelatinous porky broth made with (what else?) braised trotters.
Until I read Larbo’s post, I’d never heard of this magical liquid before, but had often contemplated the versatility of a pork-based stock.
There are plenty of recipes out there for beef, chicken, veal and vegetable variations, so why not a similar frenzy for pork, I wondered.
After ruminating on Larbo’s post for a little bit, I started to consider the possible uses for trotter gear.
The first thing that came to mind was to use the braising liquid to make bread, so after the Everyman and I waddled home from The Hoof Cafe on Friday, I grabbed a package of trotters and a package of hocks from our deep freeze (from that pig we bought a few months ago) and set to work.
5 hours later, I had a rich, jiggly porcine blend, all set to be made into what I imagined would be the best bread ever. I poured the remainder of the trotter gear into a loaf pan and chilled it until it formed a wobbly cube that was earmarked for enriching numerous other dishes in the future.
The bread recipe I chose to tinker with was none other than my recent favourite baguette from Mark Bittman’s How To Cook Everything Vegetarian. I know… the irony, right? I’m sure the vegetarian readers I have (if there are any) are shaking their heads and banging their fists over that one. Oh well.
I began by mixing a starter by substituting the water in the recipe for the trotter liquid.
The next morning I added the rest of the flour and salt and alloted the dough a long, slow rise.
When I returned home I portioned the dough into mini baguette rolls, slashed the tops and baked them in a scorching hot 475* oven until they were a beautifully burnished bronze.
Once they cooled I gave the rolls a little squeeze test. The trotter gear worked! The crust was dark and golden, but the rolls remained squishily airy and soft in the centre.
Overall, I’d consider it a successful trial run. These will definitely be making an appearance at our house again.
Foodie’s Trotter Gear Baguette
3.5 c. flour
1 c. trotter gear liquid (you can Google the recipe or buy Fergus Henderson’s book)
2 tsp salt
1.5 tsp yeast
Combine 2 cups of the flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, the yeast and the trotter gear in a small bowl until it forms a loose, pancake batter-like consistency. Cover with plastic wrap and let the starter rest in the fridge for at least 6 hours, or preferably overnight. The next day, combine the remaining flour and salt with the starter using a stand mixer, and add water a little bit at a time until the dough forms into a moist, well defined ball (about half a cup of water will do). If the dough begins to stick to the sides of the bowl, you’ve added too much water; begin adding more flour a few tablespoons at a time to compensate. Remove the paddle attachment from the mixer, cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a tea towel and let stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour, or up to 6 hours. Once ready to continue, preheat the oven to 475*, dust the counter with flour and form the dough into your desired shape. Allow it to rest for 10 minutes, then slash the top of the loaves with a lame. Bake until bread is deep golden brown (anywhere from 20 to 45 minutes, depending on size) on a baking stone, baguette pan or parchment lined sheet.
Makes 1 boule, 2 to 3 baguettes or 8 mini rolls.
Until next time…
Tags: Baking, Books, bread, Fergus Henderson, Grant Van Gameren, How To Cook Everything Vegetarian, Mark Bittman, New Projects, pork, Recipes, Restaurants, The Hoof Cafe, This Little Piggy, trotter gear








And what does a pork-o-licious baguette taste like?! The world needs to know!
Heavenly, Larbo!
The Everyman put it best to me last night…
It tastes like a lovely soft dinner roll that you’ve dipped in broth, that’s absorbed into itself. It’s not overwhelmingly porky, but there’s definitely some piggy backnotes there.