Archive for the ‘Preservation’ Category

She’s Got Pig, And She Knows How To Use It

Sliced

This past weekend project bacon reached it’s inevitable conclusion with the smoking of the first 2.5 pound slab.

Dried Out

After sitting in a honey, vanilla and pink peppercorn-laced cure for a week, I was surprised at how little liquid was expelled.  I partially attribute that to my decision to run the sea salt through a spice grinder first, which yielded a finer powder than I was expecting.  The honey was also particularly viscous, and did not adhere well at first.  In the end though, the cure seems  to have penetrated the meat fairly well.  When I retrieved it from the cure for it’s day of pellicle formation, the bacon gave off a sweet, heady aroma that was vaguely floral, possibly owing to the honey.

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Bacon Is Easy; It’s Boys That Are Hard

The Secret Ingredients

For weeks now I’ve been plotting, planning, calculating, formulating my next meaty project.

From the get-go I knew it would have to be a bacon.

Slab

The hard part was determining what sort of bacon it would be. The belly from my pig was around 15 pounds, and once I divided it up, I figured I could get around 6 batches of bacon out of it if I didn’t resort to roasting any for dinner.

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The Quest For Prosciutto (Or How My Own Stupidity Is Going To Kill Me One Day)…

Raw Ingredients

For a while now I’ve been meaning to get around to doing this.

Several of you have not let me forget that, either.

Thank you.

If it weren’t for your regular prodding reminders, this project would not have seen the light of day for several more weeks, at least.

And surprisingly enough, last night everything finally came together to begin day 1 of my 547 day homemade prosciutto adventure.

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Vanity Insanity

Batch One Complete

I’m not a vain person.  (No, really!)

…Except when it comes to my cooking.  Like most everything I do, I take a great deal of pride in putting out delicious, appetizing, tantalizing food.  I mean, if you’re not going to do something full-bore, what the hell is the point, you know?

I will readily admit that I am not the best cook in the world, but amongst the people I know, I’m pretty damn fantastic.  With the exception of my brother in law, I don’t think I know anyone else who personally invests so much of their time in the craft of cooking at home.  Of course, constantly having your friends and relatives heap praise on your gustatory delights comes with it’s own inherent pressures.  Not only are they always expecting culinary fireworks, but whenever someone has a question even remotely related to food, they inevitably come to ask me.

Half A Bushel Of LFP Certified Goodness

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Hot Damn

I went to the doctor yesterday and found out I now have to arm myself with an epi pen.  Boooooooooo!!!!

But, let me back up a second.  For several years now I’ve been having increasingly severe reactions to various types of shellfish.  Something as innocuous as crab, which I used to catch and eat frequently as a child in British Columbia now causes my throat to swell closed and is completely off limits.  A few years later, lobster came to the party and shouted out an enthusiastic allergic ditto.  While I can still eat shrimp and scallops (for now) without any ill effects, for the most part I try to avoid shellfish altogether, because I just don’t feel like taking the risk.  Plus, the one I really loved was crab, and ironically that’s the one I react to the most.

I was doing a pretty good job of avoiding shellfish too, until an intriguing note from Grant over at The Black Hoof coaxed us into returning.  It’d been almost 5 months since our last visit; since the Everyman accuses the place of giving him protein poisoning pretty much every time we go there, we’ve kind of been avoiding it for the last little bit.  That note this week changed all of that…

You see, months ago when I was in the midst of my ‘nduja experimentation, the first person I went to for advice was Grant.  Unfortunately, he didn’t seem to know anything about it, other than the Len Poli resource I’d already been studying.  In fact, I think I may have been responsible for turning him on to the ‘nduja trend (I’ve never asked; perhaps he also admires Chris Cosentino as I do, and heard of it that way).  At any rate, we both ended up making some, and his email this week was to let me know that he’d finally taken it out of the curing room and was ready to start serving it.  I decided to be a little more hardcore with mine, and instead am curing it for at least 6 months, but possibly as long as 12 depending on its consistency at the halfway point.  Regardless, I stll had a foodie’s interest in testing out Grant’s version, so away to The Hoof we’d go.

When we sat down for dinner, the first thing we both noticed was that the ‘nduja dish on the chalkboard was marked as $1.  We both spent some time speculating over whether it was such a risky dish that they were trying to give it away, or whether he just wanted to get people to order it (incidentally, it turned out to be neither – the 3 just happened to rub off beside it)  After consuming a deluxe-sized platter covered in all of our favourite meats between us (guanciale, cheek rilettes, duck mousse, chorizo, lonzino, clove sausage and more) plus a massive bowl of bread, my ‘nduja arrived in the form of a quenelle, sided by smoked spot prawns, (this is where we connect back to my shellfish allergy) halved cherry tomatoes, olive oil and some nice crusty bread.  When I’d seen that it was served with spot prawns on the menu, I spent a good few minutes debating with the Everyman the likelihood of said prawns sending me into anaphylactic shock; I’d eaten them before, but it had been years.  Obviously the lust for ‘nduja won (and luckily no shock was had).  The prawns were heavenly, lusciously smoky, but not overly so, and provided a cooling burst to combat the ‘nduja’s heat.  The strange thing about ‘nduja is that the first bite (which was tiny) was literally so hot I felt like I couldn’t breathe, but the more I ate it, the more addicted I became to it, because it wasn’t a lingering heat.  It flared up fast, but dissipated quickly.  Captivating.  By the end I was wantonly slathering toasted bread with it and mounding prawns and tomatoes on board.  There’s only one word for food this good; stupendous.

Let’s just say I’m looking forward to throwing open my ‘nduja all the more now.  October just can’t come fast enough over here.

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We Were Makin’ Jam, Rhubarby Jam… If You Want Good Jam, You’ve Got To Make It Yourself!

Finished Jam

That right there is a little tribute to a friend (who we’ll just call Squinty) and one of his favourite songs by a lady named Michelle Shocked called Makin’ Jam.

Coincidentally, I decided to make some jam of my own yesterday evening.

I haven’t done much preserving yet this year in comparison to last year, but that’s just because I made so many jams, jellies, preserves, conserves and syrups that I haven’t needed to replenish much of my supply just yet.  And while I love jam so much that I can eat it unadulterated by the spoonful, I don’t have too many opportunities to use it in my day to day life, so it really lasts around our household.  The only thing we’ve practically run out of were those fabulously tangy gherkins; we’re down to the last pint jar and are severely rationing them until I can make another batch.  I’ll be making a double batch this year just in case.

This recent jam session came about because I wanted to use up the rhubarb I received in our farmshare box last week.  Having grown up in Winnipeg where rhubarb is plentiful, I can wax poetic about the stuff, but I’m not a big fan of it when it’s cut with strawberries, as is common when adding rhubarb to jams.  I started thinking that a pure rhubarb jam might be an interesting iteration, so I began planning my attack and gathering tools in the kitchen.

I combined the chopped up farmshare bundle with some sugar, chopped candied ginger, and a split vanilla pod and let it simmer on the stovetop for about 45 minutes on low.  Toward the end when it began to reach that perfect sticky consistency, I checked the flavour and added a splash of lemon juice for good measure.  Funnelled into a jar it made just enough for 1 cup of jam.  Voila!

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Well Preserved

You could say that I have an affinity for the art of preservation, but the words come too lightly to convey how much I enjoy this particular practice.

According to the news media, sales in the canning sector (who knew it had it’s own sector?) increased by almost 25% over last year.  The article extrapolates this jump to be connected to the local food movement, but if anything, it probably has more to do with the recession.  Buying up produce while it’s in season (thus, relatively cheap) and then preserving it was a method commonplace among the octogenarian set back in the day and is slowly but surely regaining ground. Preservation is a basic, primitive form of guaranteeing a local diet, too.  If you’re not keen on foregoing your favourite fruits and vegetables over the long winter, you find a way to preserve them somehow (canned, dried, jammed, etc) so that you can enjoy them year round.

Today it’s almost unheard of for my generation to devote time and effort to such a (perceived to be useless) pursuit.  Most people in my age bracket see a jar of jam sitting on the supermarket shelf and think, if I can buy that for $2.50, why on earth would I pay for jars, fruit, other ingredients and my own time instead?  Or they purchase the gourmet, fancy $10 jam to assuage the guilt of not doing it themselves.  Those people are part of the lackadaisical, spoiled, me-me-me, self-centred generation I am so ashamed to be lumped together with.  As any true jamfiend knows, you don’t just do it for the cost effectiveness (though it is comparable to store costs once you’ve made the investment in jars).  You do it for the taste.  For that fleeting moment when the sun beat down on a strawberry bush and warmed those blistery, bursting orbs of succulent sweetness.  That is what we go to all that trouble to capture.  So that in the dead of winter you can open up a jar of preserves and reminisce about a summer that is now long gone.

Amongst my friends I am the only one I know who bothers to preserve food each year.  The irony is that there’s always a line full of those same people wanting to partake in my latest batch of goodness.  They recognize a quality product, but are too lazy to prepare it themselves.  A select group have access to my preservation pantry, on the caveat that they get nothing more until they return my empty jars.  Not returning jars is a sure way to get yourself on the blacklist, believe me.  Just consider it a sign of respect or gratitude, or an investment in future jars of edibles and you’ll do just fine.

Thinking back to my youth, I am unable to pinpoint any memories, moments, people or places that connected me to a desire to extend the harvest beyond it’s natural season.  As far as I recall nobody in my family (immediate or extended) was ever big on canning or any other form of preservation.  If I had to hazard a guess, I’d say that my predilection stems from a childhood spent having a little less than enough.  A recent inventory of our sunroom found a bookshelf laden with more jars of preserves than I will possibly ever eat or need.  The urge to ensure I’ve not wasted a crumb and will always have food has led me to concoct jar upon jar of jams, pickles, chutneys and sauces that I may never realistically use.

Case in point?  The multiple jars of lemon pickle that I accidentally scorched into more of a lemon marmalade.  Or the limequat jam that I still haven’t found a standout use for.  Or we could even talk about the 4 more jars of stout-laced whole mustard that I thought would make an excellent condiment (it did, but it will take me eons to get through 5 jars).  Having a pantry full of options like that is the best security of all.  Because no matter what happens, there will always be some form of food to nourish myself in case of an emergency.  And that on it’s own is nothing to balk at.

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Meat, Meat And More Meat

Precariously Balanced 'Nduja

I’ve been working on a lot of meat-based projects lately.

It’s beyond long overdue, but I finally got around to hanging my ‘nduja and csabai this past weekend.  They were both smoked a few weeks ago, but the lack of opportune curing space in our condo has had me stymied for some time.  Up until this point both were sitting in the fridge, contaminating my other foodstuffs with their pungent, smoky aromas.  If it weren’t for our household of kitties I would have had the perfect environment for curing in the basement, but unfortunately I’m almost certain that the ammonia smell from their litterboxes would eventually permeate (and ruin) perfectly good meat.  After all the work I’ve put into these projects that was not a risk I was willing to take.

In the end I decided to jerry rig a few suspension apparatuses around my kitchen that will (hopefully) be able to withstand the job.  So far they seem to be holding up just fine, and the way I figure it, it’s only going to get lighter anyway, as the meat begins to lose it’s moisture.

My apologies for the general crappiness of these pictures; I doubt you’ll be able to discern what it is I was doing.  It’s difficult to properly capture ‘nduja hanging suspended from a broomstick just outside the top of a kitchen windowsill.  It’s also just below the air conditioning register in the ceiling, which should keep it nicely cooled, I think.  Despite the rather bad lighting, I can assure you that after several days of smoking these salamis have taken on a burnished mahogany cast and slightly firmer (but squishier) texture.  I originally intended to hang them for about a year, but now that they’re out in the open in my kitchen I may have to rethink that strategy.  At the very least I’ll do 6 months, but in the end it’s going to be something I play by ear.

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On The Go

Just a quick pictorial to share what I’ve been working on with you…

Smoky Poblano and Pork Sausage

It’s hard to make raw meat look sexy (doubly so when it happens to be sausage) but these juicy links of homemade smoky poblano and pork sausage are just crying out for a grill and some Mexican-inspired menus. Tequila anyone?

Roasted Tomato Foccacia

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Tart, Tangy and Forgotten?

Rhubarb Rosewater Cordial

Rhubarb is incredibly delicious, but seems to be an acquired taste.

As a child in Winnipeg, summers spent munching on stalks of rhubarb were common.  If you were lucky, you’d also have a small bowl of sugar at your disposal to dip every third bite into, to combat the puckery tartness.  It wasn’t until I returned to Toronto that I began to realize how unknown rhubarb was to my generation.  In an era where children won’t eat anything unless it’s tooth-shatteringly sweet, rhubarb often gets left on the sidelines, which I find absolutely shameful.

While the most mainstream use is a marriage of convenience with strawberries in jams, crisps, crumbles and pies, rhubarb is no one trick pony.  A recent post over at Bitten (the Mark Bittman and co. New York Times blog) provides inspiration for new, savoury options.  It’s become the season where more of my organic delivery will be a surprise, as market gardens ramp up, plus the onslaught of the mystery farmshare is merely weeks away.  One thing I can almost always count on is a pound of rhubarb in every order during that first six weeks of summer.  I used my first batch of the year to make a rosewater rhubarb cordial, but during the next month I intend to also try out the Bitten suggestion, as well as several others I’ve been kicking around.

Let’s see if I can’t get you turned on to rhubarb, too.

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‘Nduja: In Pictures

All Done!

These pictures will probably horrify most of the Hebrew population, so view at your own risk.  A few observations on the ‘nduja-making process;

Pig liver is probably the most disgusting thing I’ve ever held in my two hands.  Really, truly foul.

Pig Liver... Feels Really Gross

Also, standing on a chair to tamp meat through a meat grinding attachment on the stand mixer is a really bad idea (I fell off the chair and counter and almost broke my knee in the process.  Sound like fun?)

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A New Kind Of Elder

Delicious Elderflower Slurry

Despite what you might believe, the Everyman is not the only amateur mixologist in our household.  While he mainly focuses on creating finished concoctions, I prefer to dabble in the individual flavor components, syrups, cordials and tinctures that can be used to prepare a bevy of mixed drinks and cocktails.

For quite some time now I’ve been interested in elderflowers and how they can be incorporated into various alcoholic and baking mediums.  After getting my hands on some at last week’s farmer’s market, I found I had more plans than I had supply of flowers (including flower jelly, panna cotta, angel food cake and cordial, to name a few).   Via a weekly newsletter from Chowhound I’d heard about a French elderflower liqueur called St. Germain that I really wanted to try – but, like most things I’d probably enjoy, it’s not currently available in our backwards-ass country.  Since getting my hands on the actual spirits was out of the question (until I go on another trip through the states, that is), the next best thing seemed to prepare myself an elderflower cordial.  It’ll probably be much more versatile and useful because I can mix liquor into it at random and still have a decent base flavor carrier for my other culinary intrigues.

So, while my inner cheapskate railed against me for doing it, I dumped 3/4 of my $18 bag of dried elderflowers into a boiling pot of sugary water.  Before you balk at that price tag, you should know that elderflowers are probably one of the most labor-intensive foods to pick, thus justifying such a hefty price per bag.  After stirring in a small amount of dissolved citric acid to act as a stabilizer, I covered the steaming mixture and let it steep for a long while.  Once done it’ll be strained of slurryish solids and bottled into the dainty glass pop top flasks I’ve been saving when we buy French carbonated lemonade.

I haven’t quite worked out what I’ll do with it yet, but right now I’m imagining a refreshing afternoon beverage of the syrup topped with soda water, or mixed into a vodka lemonade.  There really are endless possibilities for it.  I did note that the small spoonful I tasted was like nothing else I’d ever experienced before, so there’ll be a learning curve with it I’m sure.  Not that it matters though, because I just can’t wait!

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I’m Picking Up My Meaty Assembly, Won’t That Butcher Be So Proud Of Me?

I’ve received word.

The stuff is finally in.

‘Nduja, csabai and smoked turkey, here I come!

Also came across this over at The Sausage Debauchery (love that name!) this morning.  The second bacon sounds so delicious I might have to try playing with some of it, too.  Here’s hoping the butcher’s got a nice slab of uncured belly meat with my name on it!

Until next time…